Cooking with alcohol has always been fun for me. For I enjoy the flavors that it brings, whether it’s a dessert or an entree. If you are one of those few, that likes to try cooking with your favorite drink. Please feel free to share with me your recipe. For I’m always looking to try new ways.
Alcohol’s unique chemical properties make wine, beer, champagne, sake, and liquor more than just a complementary drink to your meal. Recipes like beer-steamed crabs, tequila hot sauce, rabbit braised in red wine, and more are (if you’ll pardon the pun) proof that booze has a true home in the kitchen.
FRENCH CANADIAN TRIFLE
(Bagatelle) The typical bagatelle in La Beauce is a child’s delight of Jell-O, white cake, and strawberry jam. We prefer this grown-up version, with fresh fruit, custard (instead of Jell-O), and a drizzle of marsala.
For the Custard
4 tbsp. sugar
2 tbsp. cornstarch
2 egg yolks
2 cups milk
1 tsp. vanilla extract
For the Trifle
1 (8” x 4”) pound cake or equal amount of genoise or sponge cake
2-4 tbsp. marsala, rum, or brandy
1 cup strawberry jam
2 cups fresh raspberries
1 1⁄2 cups heavy cream
1 tbsp. sugar
For the custard:
Mix together sugar and cornstarch in a large saucepan. Add egg yolks, and whisk to combine; then gradually whisk in milk. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until custard thickens to the consistency of thick cream, about 25 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl, and add vanilla. Cover surface of custard with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming, and refrigerate until completely chilled, about 2 hours.
For the trifle:
Cut cake into 2” X 1” pieces. Arrange a layer of cake pieces in the bottom of a large trifle or glass bowl. Sprinkle cake with some of the marsala; then spread a layer of strawberry jam over the cake; then scatter some of the raspberries over the jam. Pour some of the custard over the berries. Repeat layering, ending with custard. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 3 hours. Remove trifle from refrigerator about 1 hour before serving.
Just before serving, put heavy cream and sugar into a large, well-chilled mixing bowl. Beat cream with a whisk or an electric mixer fitted with whisks until cream holds soft peaks. Do not overbeat. Decorate trifle with large dollops of whipped cream.
VENISON SAUSAGE BRAISED IN BEER
Venison sausage takes on a rich, yeasty flavor when braised in lager-style beer with carrots, leeks, apples, and savoy cabbage.
4 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
12 venison sausages
4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into large pieces
2 leeks, white part only, cleaned and cut into 1” pieces
2 granny smith apples, peeled, cored, and cut into wedges
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 (12-oz.) bottle lager-style beer
1⁄4 cup demi-glace (optional)
1 small savoy cabbage, trimmed, cored, and cut into large pieces
Melt 2 tbsp. butter with olive oil in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, add sausages, and brown on all sides, about 10 minutes total. Transfer sausages to a plate, cover with aluminum foil to keep warm, and set aside.
Melt remaining 2 tbsp. butter in the same skillet, then add carrots, leeks, and apples, stirring to coat vegetables and apples with butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and cook until everything in the pan is glazed and slightly browned, about 10 minutes. Pick apple wedges out of skillet and set aside. Add beer and demi-glace (if using), and, with a wooden spoon, loosen any brown bits stuck to the bottom of the skillet. Reduce heat to medium-low, then cover and cook for 20 minutes. Return sausages and apples to the skillet, then add cabbage. Cover and cook until vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.
SHRIMP WITH TEQUILA AND WHITE CORNMEAL SAUCE
FOR THE SALSA BLANCA:
2 cups milk
2 tbsp. minced white onion
1 small clove garlic, peeled and minced
3 tbsp. butter
2 1⁄2 tbsp. masa harina
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE SHRIMP:
18 large raw shrimp
6 tbsp. queso fresco (preferably oaxaca), crumbled
18 slices bacon
2 tsp. vegetable oil
1 small green bell pepper, seeded and diced
1 small red bell pepper, seeded and diced
1⁄2 cup tequila
For the salsa blanca, combine milk, onions, and garlic in a medium saucepan and simmer over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes. Melt butter in a separate saucepan over medium heat. Add masa harina to butter, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it has absorbed butter, about 2 minutes. Strain milk, then slowly add to masa harina mixture, whisking constantly. Cook until sauce thickens, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper to taste. Place plastic wrap directly on surface of sauce to prevent a skin from forming and set aside.
Preheat oven to 425. Peel shrimp (leaving tail attached), then butterfly and devein.
Place 1 tsp. queso fresco in center of each shrimp, then fold closed. Wrap 1 slice bacon tightly around each shrimp, starting at tail end. Place shrimp on a baking sheet and bake until bacon just crisps, 10-12 minutes.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add bell peppers and cook until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add shrimp and tequila, toss, and cook about 1 minute more. To serve, divide shrimp between 6 plates and spoon salsa blanca on top.
CHOCOLATE BRANDY HAZELNUT TORTE
Crisp, crunchy ladyfingers and toasted hazelnuts mold together with sweet raspberries, chopped chocolate, and brandy for the perfect biscotti-like, freeze-made treat.
For the Chocolate Hazelnut Torte
8 oz. quality semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
8 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
2 cups hazelnuts, toasted and skinned
22 firm ladyfingers or other similar sweet biscuits, broken into small pieces
2 eggs
1⁄3 cup granulated sugar
3 tbsp. brandy
For Serving
2 cups fresh or thawed frozen raspberries
3 tbsp. granulated sugar
1 cup heavy cream, chilled
2 tbsp. confectioners’ sugar
1⁄4 tsp. vanilla extract
For the torte:
Melt chocolate and butter together in the top of a double boiler set over a pot of simmering water over medium heat. Meanwhile, coarsely chop 1 1⁄3 cups of the hazelnuts. Combine half the chopped nuts with the remaining whole nuts in a small bowl and set aside. Combine remaining chopped nuts with biscuits in a large bowl and set aside. Line a 7″ x 11″ dish with plastic wrap and set aside.
Beat eggs and sugar together in a medium bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed until thick and pale yellow, about 5 minutes. Stir in chocolate mixture, then add to bowl with nuts and biscuits. Add brandy, stir until well combined, then transfer to prepared dish. Scatter remaining chopped and whole nuts in an even layer on top, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze until firm, about 3 hours.
For the sauce:
Puree raspberries and granulated sugar together in a blender, strain through a sieve into a bowl, and set aside.
For the whipped cream:
Whisk cream, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla together in a large chilled bowl until soft peaks form, then set aside.
Transfer torte to a cutting board, unwrap, and cut evenly into 24 wedges with a sharp knife. Divide sauce evenly between 12 chilled plates, then put a large dollop of whipped cream and 2 pieces of torte on each. Serve cold.
80 PROOF SWEET AND SPIRITED
This rich, booze-laced butter goes with Christmas Pudding and can be sweetened with confectioners’ or brown sugar and flavored with whiskey, rum, or vanilla extract. It can be refrigerated, so that its soft, pillowy texture hardens (which explains why it’s also known as hard sauce).
12 tbsp. room-temperature unsalted butter
3⁄4 cup sugar
4 tbsp. brandy
Beat butter and sugar together in a mixing bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy.
Add brandy and beat until thoroughly combined. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve at room temperature, or refrigerate until hard, then serve.
CHRISTMAS PUDDING
2 cups quality assorted raisins
2 cups brandy
1 1⁄2 oz. quality assorted candied fruits, such as pitted apricots, cherries, melon, and citrus peel, cut into thin strips
5 tbsp. cold beef suet or butter, diced
1 3⁄4 cups fine day-old bread crumbs
1 cup blanched almond meal
1⁄4 cup dark muscovado sugar
3 tbsp. flour
2 tbsp. shredded unsweetened coconut
2 tbsp. finely grated peeled carrot
1⁄2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1⁄4 tsp. finely grated orange zest
1 pinch ground cinnamon
1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg
1 egg
1⁄2 tsp. dark treacle or molasses
1⁄3 cup Guinness stout
2 tbsp. fresh orange juice
3⁄4 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Macerate raisins in brandy for 1 hour. Drain, reserving 1⁄3 cup of the brandy. Preheat oven to 450.
Put raisins, candied fruits, suet or butter, bread crumbs, almond meal, sugar, flour, coconut, carrots, zests, cinnamon, and nutmeg into a large bowl and stir well. Combine egg and treacle or molasses in another bowl. Stir in beer, juices, and reserved brandy, add to fruit mixture, and mix until evenly moist. Pack half the batter into each of 2 greased 2 ½-cup glazed-ceramic or glass bowls (about 3″ deep × 5″ wide). Cover each bowl with 2 layers each waxed paper, then foil; secure with twine. Put bowls on a rack set in a wide deep pot. Add boiling water to pot to reach 2″ up sides of bowls. Cover pot and steam puddings in oven, replenishing water as necessary, for 4 1⁄2 hours.
Remove bowls from pot and let cool. Store puddings in a cool, dark, dry spot (or refrigerate) for at least 1 day and up to 2 years. If storing for longer than 1 day, replace covers. Reheat puddings by steaming them, still covered, for 1 hour. Unmold onto plates.
WHISKEY CREAM
Serve big, cool dollops of this for-grown-ups-only whipped cream with warm Christmas Pudding.
2 cups heavy cream
4 tsp. sugar
6 tbsp. Irish whiskey
Whisk heavy cream and sugar together in a large bowl until soft peaks form. Whisk in whiskey. Cover and refrigerate until cold.
PORK LOIN WITH APPLES, CIDER, AND CALVADOS
Inspired by Norman cuisine, I married a hearty pork loin with apples and the classic beverages of the Calvados region of Normandy, France—hard cider and calvados.
4 1⁄2 lb. pork loin roast, trimmed
1 tbsp. flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp. finely chopped rosemary
4 tbsp. butter
3 medium onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
4 stalks rosemary (optional)
5 baking apples, cored and quartered
1⁄2 cup hard cider
1⁄4 cup good-quality calvados
Preheat oven to 325. Tie pork loin every 2″ with kitchen twine so that it holds a “round” shape. In a small bowl, mix together flour, salt and pepper to taste, and chopped rosemary. Rub the flour mixture all over the pork loin, coating evenly and well.
Heat 2 tbsp. butter in a large heavy skillet and sear meat over high heat, turning often, until browned on all sides. Transfer with pan juices to a large baking pan. Scatter onions and garlic around the roast. Cut up remaining butter and distribute evenly atop onions. Add rosemary stalks (if used) to pan. Cover with foil and place in oven.
Cook for 45 minutes, then add apples and hard cider to pan. Baste everything with the pan juices. Re-cover and cook for 30 minutes more. Raise oven temperature to 400°, remove foil, baste, and cook for another 15 minutes.
Place roast on a cutting board, remove string, and allow to rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Meanwhile, transfer onions and apples to a platter. On top of the stove, reduce pan juices by half. Warm calvados, add to the pan juices, and flame. (Keep a pan lid nearby, in case it flares up.) Simmer sauce while you slice the pork loin. Arrange meat over apples and onions and serve with the sauce.
WHITE WINE SOUP
This rich soup may have rustic origins, but it’s equally at home on an elegant urban table.
2 tbsp. unsalted butter, plus extra butter for toast
1 medium onion, finely chopped
3 cups strong beef stock
1 1⁄4 cups Savoyard white wine, or other light, dry white wine
1 small carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs thyme
4 large slices French country bread
6 large egg yolks
1 1⁄4 cups crème fraîche
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Melt 2 tbsp. butter in a medium stockpot over medium heat. Add onions and cook until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add stock, wine, carrots, bay leaf, and thyme; bring to a simmer. Continue cooking for 15 minutes.
Toast bread slices on 1 side in preheated broiler. Generously butter and toast other side. Halve slices and set aside.
Strain stock and return to the same pot over low heat. Discard solids. In a medium mixing bowl, beat together egg yolks and crème fraîche. Whisk in 1 cup hot stock, then stir mixture back into pot. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat soup to serving temperature, but do not boil. Ladle into four bowls and top each serving with 2 halves of toast.
DECADENT TRIFLE
The trifle is a very old concoction—by some accounts, more than 300 years old—but twentieth century variations have turned it into a classic, occasion-ready centerpiece. Drenched in sherry and kirsch, our version features layer upon layer of ginger cake, custard, berries, chocolate, and cream.
For the Custards
3⁄4 cup sugar
7 tbsp. cornstarch
1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt
4 egg yolks
2 whole eggs
4 cups milk
8 oz. 70-percent dark chocolate, finely chopped
4 tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed
3 tsp. vanilla extact
8 oz. white chocolate, finely chopped
10 oz. fresh blueberries
For Assembly and Syllabub Topping
Ginger-Lingonberry Cake
2 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. sweet olorosso sherry
12 oz. fresh raspberries
2 tbsp. kirsch
1 cup seedless raspberry jam
1 tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. cognac or brandy
1⁄2 tsp. lemon zest
1 cup heavy cream
Make the dark chocolate custard:
Whisk together 1⁄2 cup sugar, 2 tbsp. cornstarch, and 1⁄4 tsp. salt in a 2-qt. saucepan; add 2 egg yolks and 1 egg and whisk until smooth. Add 2 cups milk and heat over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring often, and cook until mixture thickens, 1-2 minutes. Remove from heat and add dark chocolate in four batches, whisking after each addition until smooth. Add 2 tbsp. butter and 2 tsp. vanilla and whisk until smooth; transfer to a bowl, cover surface with plastic wrap, and refrigerate dark chocolate custard until chilled.
Make white chocolate-blueberry custard:
Whisk together remaining sugar, cornstarch, and salt in another 2-qt. saucepan; add remaining egg yolks and egg and whisk until smooth. Add remaining milk and heat over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring often, and cook until mixture thickens, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and add white chocolate in four batches, whisking after each addition until smooth; add remaining butter and vanilla and whisk until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and cover surface with plastic wrap; let cool to room temperature. Fold blueberries into white chocolate custard and set aside.
Assemble trifle:
Cut half of Ginger-Lingonberry Cake cake into 1″ cubes (reserve remaining cake for another use). Arrange cake cubes snugly in bottom of a 3-qt. glass trifle dish or bowl; drizzle with 2 tbsp. sherry. In a medium bowl, toss raspberries with kirsch and add to the top of the cake in a single layer. Spoon white chocolate custard over raspberries and smooth top with a rubber spatula; refrigerate until set, 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the raspberry jam in a small saucepan over medium heat until loose; pour through a fine strainer set over a small bowl and let cool for 10 minutes. Pour jam over white chocolate custard and spread evenly. Return trifle to refrigerator and chill until set, 2 hours. Stir dark chocolate custard until smooth, spoon over jam, and smooth with spatula; cover dish with plastic wrap; chill for 8 hours.
An hour before you plan to serve trifle, make syllabub:
Whisk together sugar, 1 tsp. sherry, cognac or brandy, and lemon zest in a large bowl until sugar dissolves. Add cream and whisk until mixture holds peaks but is not stiff; spoon syllabub over dark chocolate custard, creating swirls and peaks with spoon, and chill until ready to serve.
BOOZY HOT SAUCE
This infused tequila drizzled over everything from grilled fish to grilled peaches.
1⁄4 tsp. whole allspice
1⁄4 tsp. black peppercorns
1⁄4 tsp. cumin seeds
1 pint tequila blanco
3-5 fresh or dried red Thai chiles, smashed with side of a knife
1 smoked black cardamom pod (optional)
Heat allspice, peppercorns, and cumin in an 8″ skillet over medium heat and cook, swirling skillet, until toasted and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Remove pan from heat; set aside. Take a swig of tequila, or pour off an inch of the spirit to make room for the other ingredients; add toasted spices, chiles, and optional black cardamom to bottle. Add pour spout or screw top to bottle; let hot sauce sit for 1 week before using.
Chef Hank's Notes 